Chapter 29 – Travels from Paris – and more

During these thirteen years we travel a lot, and among other places we went to London a few times. And always in London we saw at least one play, we went to Selfridges’s in Oxford Street and we went to Foyle’s wonderful bookstore in Charing Cross Road where we walked down to the basement and looked over the wonderfully messy stacks of books which reminded us of the old bookstore, Barnes and Noble  in New York City, where, in the old days, you could walk down to a somewhat less scruffy-looking basement and find the real jewels.

A quiet pause in beautiful Soho Square, much tidied up since the bohemian days.

We went to Soho Square which neither of us knew of from previous separate visits. It doesn’t at all look downtrodden any more, just quiet and beautiful. 

We visited the British Museum and its fabumous collection of stolen artifacts from the old world, Egypt mainly. We bought some minor Kashmir scarves and things in the very special store across from the museum. We heard a group of mostly young people singing Christmas carols outside Saint Martin-in-the-Fields on Trafalgar Square. It was the end of November, it was cold and I was wearing a new Irish tweed suit from Selfriddges. The singing was delightful and we have always wondered how it is the the British are so musical and the French not. This was a very nice surprise.

The magnificent entrance on Cromwell Gardens to the V&A Museum (by By Diliff – Own work,, Wikipedia)

 In 1988 we finally got around to visiting the V&A (Victoria & Albert) Museum, the jewel of art and design in its magnificent building on Cromwell Gardens just south of Knightsbridge and Kensington Gardens. It is only a stone’s throw away from the Roayl Albert Hall where I once went to a Promenade concert in 1955 with my dear friend Melville, who introduced me to London. The Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens is right there too.

In this nonpareil museum the very rooms are part of the art exhibit. If I ever saw anything vaguely like it, it would be Glyptoteket in

In 2000, an 11-metre high, blown glass chandelier by Dale Chihuly was installed as a focal point in the rotunda at the V&A’s main entrance. (V&A Museum Foyer, London – Oct 2012, Wikipedia)

Copenhagen, but this is on a far superior level with its enormous number of art objects and its splendor. Some works of art were donated to the V&A, others were of course bought with the money the British Empire stole from its colonies in all parts of the world, and which they certainly thought they had a perfectly legal and moral right to. The museum was founded in 1852. You will find art of all imaginable forms from various European countries, from India and from several other Asian countries.

We must have been seriously overwhelmed during our visit, because we don’t remember very much of what is in this magnificent museum. Surprisingly enough, we have only one picture from the interior and that is one of Victorian costumes. If we ever decide to go back to London one more time, I believe it would be to revisit the V&A Museum. We would take a couple of days for the museum alone and hopefully also get in a visit to a theater. 7

We met with one of our Swedish girls, now a guide in London, Katarina from Stockholm, the daughter of very close friends from my youth, Britt and Ingvar. We first saw her at the hotel where she had her guiding headquarters, which was far better than ours that year, which happened to be pretty much of a dump that time, even though the exterior looked fine. We also went to her home in a street called something ending in

Siv in front of a couple in Victorian dress at teh V&A museum.

‘Mew’ — such a cute street name. She worked as a guide for Swedish tourists in London, and she loved her job. It ended after a year or two though. She got married to the nice man, Anders, and had Britt’s and ingvar’s first granddaughters, being the oldest one of three sisters .. They now have seven grandchildren in all, of both genders.

Now John being the one he is, it was a must to go to Simpson’s in the Strand for dinner. We went there a, at least twice. When John called to make a reservation, he wisely asked if tie was de rigueur. The answer was ‘Yes’. John of course had not brought a tie, so we found on at Simpsons in Old Bond Street. Funny coincidence, and I don’t think it’s the same Simpsons. Apparently the name of this men’s clothing store is Daks Simpsons, so the likeness in the names is just a coincidence.

The atmosphere at Simpson’s in the Strand is sober and low-keyed, not snobbish. No noisy Americans here. Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding was the choice we made both times, since it just could not be more succulent than here. The noisy Americans might well be at the Savoy, which is close by, but certainly very different. But we also had delicious steak and kidney pie at Lyons in Fleet Street, which leads up to St Paul’s Cathedral. This was an area that I remember seeing still in rubble after the war in 1955, all around St. Paul’s there was nothing but rubble. I was amazed and shocked. Ten years after the end of the war London had not yet quite recovered, not by a long shot. Leicester Square was another shocking surprise where you could still see the ghastly destruction from the blitz during the war.

London today is a glitzy place of theaters and museums galore, Picccadilly Circus has been totally chnaged and much of its great charm gone by the seemingly eternal ‘Guiness Time’ neon sign with the enormous clock having been replaced by  — what else, Mc Donald’s increasingly tasteless  and domineering signs plus a multitude of IT signs. Even the Coca Cola sign is better than IT, in my opinion, since it was there as long ago as in 1955.

_____________________

I had been to concerts in London in 1955 with my dear friend Melville, who first introduced me to London, its very modern Festival Hall and the Royal Albert Hall right south of Kensington Gardens. I had seen plays in London before I got to London with John, even the historic play

Agatha Christie’s play “The Mousetrap” on Aùbassadors Theatre  (Program) 

by Agatha Christie at Ambassadors Theatre,with one of my  protégées when we passed through London in 1966, a group of thirteen young American girls and I, as their chaperone. It is still running today, but at a different theater, Since the opening in the 50s, it must be the children and grandchildren of the early audiences who are now seeing it. Amazing. I do believe it beats the most long-running performance in Paris, which is Ionesco’s “La cantatrice chauve” and “La leçon” at La le Théâtre de la Huchette in le Qiuartier Latin. (“The Bald Soprano” and “The Lesson”) Or doesn’t it beat Ionesco?

I quote from ‘Leçon de français‘ “What’s created the renown of this place is that for fifty years here we’ve been performing The Bald Soprano and The Lesson by Ionesco. It’s the world record for a consecutive run of the same show in the same place. Well, to begin with, the success was the success of a discovery. People came to listen to a new kind of humour. The Theatre of the Absurd, to begin with, surprised.” So it seems that Ionesco takes the price over old-fashioned Agatha Christie. I saw that performance around 1070 and even at that time it was a sensation, the way it seemed to have been running forever.

Théâtre de la Huchette in le 5e arrondissement in Paris (Wikipedia)

We even all of us saw the musical, Oliver!, all arranged by ‘Simpsons Study Tours’ or rather its sister company in London who arranged our entire 8-week tour through Europe — badly. Oliver!, a musical based on Dickens’s ‘Oliver Twist’, was seemingly a great success, but I found ti a very lacklustre performance, as did in fact several reviewers, if I remember right.

However, now with John as my guide, theater in London became a much more interesting thing.

The first play we saw together was Tom Stoppard’s Jumpers, a play and a playwright I had never heard of until then. I was back in the U.S. and my school at Mamaroneck after the one year in Paris when I had met John.Came Easter and I had nothing to do with myself. It was 1972 and it was getting close to Easter vacation. There was nobody  in the U.S. I could go and see during my vacation. So I found a charter company (which I lived to regret, since they had gone bankrupt and closed down when it was time for me to go back home).

We had a good time seeing all John’s Collège de France friends, Roberto among others. When it came time for my returning from London, John generously suggested accompanying me. So that got to be out-r first visit together to London. We saw Jumpers and I donn’t suppose we had much time for anything else. I am not sure if our first visit to Simpson’s in the Strand was in ’72 or rather in ’83, which was to become our second trip to London. That was after we had sold our fermette in l’Indre and it was after our big tour of the United States in 1979. But I do know that we have been to Simpson’s in the Strand on two occasions. Both times equally pleasant and delicious. We might go back one day and see how it has changed. After thirty years it simply can not have remained the same as the last cenbtury’s refined, low-toned gentleman’s-club-like restaurant.

Jumpers‘ was an exciting play and an excellently staged performance, lively and funny.  It was on at the Royal National Theater on the south bank, right across the Westminster Bridge crossing the Thames from the Houses of Parliament.

Tom Stoppard makes fun of the field of academic philosophy — in the person of George Moore university professor of philosophy — and “likening it to a less-than skillful competitive gymnastics display.” (Wikipedia)  Stoppard also makes fun of the exercise-nut, Archie JUumper, Vice-Chancellor of George Moore’s university. To complete this whimsical story, a murder mystery is also added to this highly unconventional play.  Dotty is George’s disturbed wife, played by Diana Rigg, the only actor I had ever heard of. I knew her as the smart and funny Emma Peel in ‘The Avengers‘, a pretty funny television series in the sixties that I often watched in New Rochelle.  

Quote from Wikipedia:

“George Moore is a faded and slightly foolish philosophy professor employed at a university whose slick, exercise-mad Vice-Chancellor Archie Jumper forces a tumbling and leaping curriculum on the faculty.” (Wikipedia)

In the fall of 1983 we saw a second play by Tom Stoppard — ‘The Real Thing’. We were somehow less impressed, but it got excellent reviews and it was a success. It opened in  November 1982 and we saw it in the fall of ’83. We were not really impressed by the play, but it was a clear success and so, I suppose that the fault lay with us.

In the fall of 1988 on our next visit to London we first saw ‘The Secret of Sherlock Holmes’, a play by Jeremy Paul, at the Wyndham Theatre. Sherlock Holmes was played by Jeremy Brett who later got to be the Sherlocjkl Hollmes to at least one generation as he played the part on television between 1984 and ’94.. It was great fun.

We also saw The Tempest at the Old Vic with Max von Sydow as Prospero in 1988. I was not terribly carried away by the play itself, even though I love Shakespeare, to read and to watch and to listen to (e.g. BBC excellent radio productions). However, what made this a very special evening, at least for me, was my idea to go backstage and try to talk to Max von Sydow. , We managed this with a little white lie to the man (porter?) at the entrance. He asked if we were friends and I said Yes.

Max von Sydow came out of his dressing room just about finished with his de-make up and re-dressing. I said I was the daughter of Arne Lydén and I mentioned the beginning of Malmö Stadsteater with Sandro Malmquist and Arne Lydén. They were indeed the very beginning of the therater’s existence, even though there were also guest directors. Max von Sydow said with quite a bit of nostalgia that those were indeed the beginning of his love of theater. He lived not far from Malmö and he probably saw every play that was produced at the theater. He was 18 years old when the theater opened in 1944. I couldn’t get myself to say that it was a wonderful performance, and Max probably knew well that it was not, but I did say something positive about his acting. He is always a wonderful actor, always just right, the same as many of the other Ingmar Bergman actors. I made a mistake by speaking Swedish too much since John didn’t understand what we were saying, but he forgave me. It was fun speaking Swedish with Max von Sydow. He actually seemed to enjoy our little chat too, and John nudged me so I did switch over to English finally.

How we managed to also go to the Covent Garden I am sure I don’t know, but we have definitely been there twice. The first time was the fun time and I do think it must have been in 1983, even though for some reason I don’t have the program around here in my binders where I have saved all my programs.

We suddenly had the idea of trying to get tickets to Die Fledermaus by Johann Strauss II at the Covent Garden, where neither of us had ever been. It would have been in 1983.  We got back to the Covent Garden in 1988 to see Boris Godunov by Mussorgsky — Robert Lloyd as the feared Boris and Eva Randovà as Marina.  Boris However, the only seats we could get were up right under the roof, what we in French call ‘le poulailler’ — where the chickens roost at night. We knew the operetta well and even though we were sitting so very far from the stage we  really enjoyed the show.

I had seen Die Fledermau (Läderlappen) at the Stockholm Royal Opera in 1962 with wonderful Elsabeth Söderström as Fra von Eisenstein, the female lead. The New York Times wrote in 2009 in their obituary “the  revered Swedish soprazno”. She performed at the Met in the early sixties and then again in the eighties. The other leading Swedish soprano of that day was Maragreta Hallin whom I saw as Desdemona at Malmö Stadsteater in a guest perforamnce by the Roayl Opera in 1964. She was heavenly, but never did perform internationally. It is said that she was inhibited by her lack of knowledge of English. Well, as Desdemoan she was a dream. That was the same year I later moved to the United States.

Back to the Covent Garden and the poulaiiller. fun interlude where the main singers have fun show off with a song from their own country. The hostess/soprano makes a joke about being from Ohio, which she clearly was. I don’t seem to have the program, but it would most likely have been Barbara Daniels  Big laughter from the audience when she starts speaking English. And she sings an American song, I forget which one. It might well have been from Gershwin’s Porgy and Bess. It probably was. I don’t remember the other jokes, but here were of course several and the audience enjoyed it immensely.

In our recording at home Jussi Björling sings a Swedish national song, not the anthem, but almost. We had a fine time up in the poulailler. Also at the beginning of the party when the Emperor Franz Joseph calls to say that he can’t come, the princess/hostess says Hallo Josi, wie get’s dir? It’s of course hilarious to hear the hostess — even though a princess — treating the emperor as ‘du’ and calling him by a nickname — a fun little detail in the libretto.xx

Our vision was good back in those days, and our hearing too, and it was of course lucky that we knew the operetta well. From up high we came down a pretty small staircase, and since we wanted to see the foyer, we went around to the main entrance and saw … Daniel Barenboim coming down the big fancy stairway with a couple of other men, his white silk scarf loosely arranged around his neck over his black evening coat. It was like getting inside a play, these elegant gentlemen descending the marble stairway at the Covent Garden.

We saw Daniel Barenboim once at the Philharmonic Hall at the Lincoln Center (renamed Avery Fisher Hall in 1973) doing a piano concerto, being both the pianist and the conductor, and we have always very much admired him as a conductor especially.

The Barbican Centre 1988 Shakespeare — magnificent cultural  complex, 1988 or ’83. Amazing when I thought about how all of this was nothing but a huge pile of rubble on my first visit to London  n 1955. Rubble all the way from St Paul’s to where the Barbican Centre was created

The Centre hosts classical and contemporary music concerts, theatre performances, film screenings and art exhibitions. It also houses a library, three restaurants, and a conservatory. The Barbican Centre is member of the Global Cultural Districts Network….

was officially opened to the public by Queen Elizabeth II on 3 March 1982. (Wikipedia)

_________________

In 1983 we more or less on a fluke decided to go to Berlin and get a one-day visa for East Berlin. We had worked on improving our German ever since we had started going to the Austrian Alps for mountain hiking and climbing in the summer. We had both read novels and plays by Dürrenmatt, a novel by Max Frisch and one novel by Alfred Andersch. it seems like a strange coincidence that all these three writers should be Swiss, or at least lived in Switzerland. Andersch is German and I think vocabulary came back to us. I had seven years of German in secondary school, but my speaking had never been one of my strong points. My grammar and making sentences with all the strange German verbs at the end of the sentence was easy for me though.

Kurfürstendamm with, in the foreground, a 1983 Mercedes. Kaiser Vilhelmskirche in the background.

In West Berlin English went very well, but in East Berlin German was a necessity — in fact, the only way to communicate.  

What struck us in West Berlin, where the only ruin from the war was the Kaiser Vilhelm Memorial Church  (die Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche), which had been left to remind later generations of the horrors and destruction of Would War II, which, as we know well, the Germans themselves started, with considerable support from Austria. 

On the bus-ride down south to the Dahlem Ethnological Museum, which first opened in 1973, we traveled past long rows of drab apartment buildings, where it could easily be seen how the city government had been in a terrible hurry, when the war was over, to remove all traces of ruined buildings and to replace the ruins by new apartment buildings by new and, even though certainly comfortable, remarkably unaesthetic buildings. No pleasant architecture had been considered when all these hundreds and hundreds of drab buildings mushroomed up. I can well imagine that the goal had been to create decent housing for thousands of homeless families, and very understandably and commendably so.

The bombing of Berlin by the Allies — the U.S, the U.K., and the last year, even France, had been ferocious and now,  after the end of the war, the survivors, the home-comers, had to be housed and be helped to find a way to go on with their lives. That must not have been easy, and I can well imagine why all the haste to provide decent housing.1   

“According to statistics composed by the Polish ministry of defence, military sappers intervene on average 7 to 8 thousand times a year, and dispose of about 400 thousand (yes, thousand) “explosive and hazardous items”, most of which are unexploded ordnance from WW2.  2

Once we arrived in Dahlem, it was almost beyond belief to see the affluent villas set inside  beautiful yards, which surrounded the Dahlem Museum and which had clearly been left intact by the ferocious bombing of Berlin in the war. Were there really even one individual who had not really suffered from the horrors of that cruel war?

Dahlem ethological Museum, located in the affluent borough of Dahlem in southwest Berlin

The Dahlem Museum comprises outstanding art and artefacts that were created outside Europe, goods that were brought to Berlin in the 19th and 20th centuries. 

Strangely enough, we apparently did not take any pictures of this gorgeous and very modern building and its striking architecture. It had been planned originally in 1914, but things did indeed get in the way for ethological museum building. It was brought back as a project in the late sixties and it was finished in 1973.

I went back to Dahlem Museum in 1997 when John was with computer people at his international meeting. That is when I took the pictures I now have. 3

John under the street sign (mostly hidden) that says “Unter den Linden”

 

Our day in East Berlin was living history. Starting out, of course, at Checkpoint Charlie, we made our way up to Brandenburger Tor. From there we followed the magnificent boulevard “Unter den Linden” over east to the cultural center with the most memorable buildings from centuries past

The old opera building was so black from soot, we assumed, from the fires during the vicious bombing by the Allies during the war. We didn’t even take a picture. There was nothing to see.

Across from it was Humboldt University, not too black though. Might they actually have cleaned it? Next to the Opera, across what was once named Kaiser-Franz-Joseph-Platz”, formerly colloquially “Opernplatz”.The palace was once the home to the Kaiser when he left Sans Souci for Berlin. The Changing of Guards took place at this palace and iuafter watching videos I see that it took place in the very same way by the Nazis in 1936 as by the East German government in the summer of 1989, just before the wall fell.

Kaiser Wilhelm is said to appear at a window of the palace to watch the changing of the guards.. 4

Since then far more gruesome events have taken place at Bebelplatz. This was where the first book burning  took place  in and there is a plaque that says that on May 10, 1933 the first book burning took place by National Socialist students at Bebelplatz. A reminder from the USSR of the atrocities that took place during the Nazi era.

Die neue Wache, the memorial against war and dictatorship

There is also a Changing of the Guards that takes place at “Die neue Wache” —  “Mahnmal für die Opfer des Faschismus und Militarismus neu gestaltet” (Memorial to the victims of fascism and militarism redesigned.) This is a memorial to remind later generations of the evils of war and dictatorship . The building dates from 1816, but since 1931 it has served as a war memorial. However,n the texts on the walls inside the building seem rather to oppose the Nazi spirit than confirm it.   

 I remember vividly lunch in a drab restaurant, where, like in Prague a few years later, there was basically just a dish of some non-defined meat and dumplings to be had. I had it twice since I didn’t feel like filling myself up with dumplings. The waiter (Was there more than one?) was standing with his back against the wall right next to us, but he was not the least bit interested in serving us, so the meal took a while. Again, it was very much the same in Prague in 1989, just a year before Czechoslovakia had free elections in 1990.

Alexanderplatz with the Forum Hotel in 1997 — in the foreground the Marienkirche which seems to have escaped damages during the war.

The Forum Hotel at Alexanderplatz, the ugliest building in 1983, probably made to look a lot better since the wall came down in 1989 and the City government seriously started in on the work of cleaning up and beautifying East Berlin. Alexanderplatz no more looks anything like the grim and cold Platz it was in 1983, with this horror of a skyscraper hotel dominating it and no other really outstanding buildings.

In 1997, on our second visit to Berlin, the Plaza was a hangout for dubious-looking skinheads and punks. On our way back from that Plaza on a somewhat late evening, I remember walking straight through one of those groups of really weird-looking fellows. It didn’t bother me much. But that was 14 years later. And also the skyscraper that we had found so monstrous has now become “Park Inn by Radisson Berlin”. I can try to imagine the interior metamorphosis that must have taken place at that hotel.

On our way back via Leipziger Street we went by Potsdamerpolatz, or rather the site where the Potsdamerplatz had once been. There was nothing left of the buildings that had been savagely bombed during the war, and the only thing we could see was a poster with pictures of Potsdamerplatz from four different years. Stretching north from the one-time Platz was a sadly empty huge area with nothing. A deserted area that was going to be filled with construction the next time we were in Berlin, in 1997. At the northeastern end of this empty area was where Hitler’s bunker had once been and where he killed his newly wedded wife Eva Braun and the himself onApril 30, 1945. He married his long-time mistress just two days before the suicide. 

 

One day we found that the Renaissance-Theater was playing Bertolt Brecht’s “Arthur Ui”. A 1941 play by Brecht seemed like just the right thing to see in Berlin. We went to a bookstore and bough two copies of the play, one in German and one in English. We had one day to read it. John was generous and chose the version in German and I was happy to read it in English, since I don’t read as fast as John does. 

It was a hilarious day. As I remember now decades later we practically walked around Berlin

Cover of the program in Berlin 1983

reading as we were walking — which is probably a distorted memory. However, we did manage to get through the play so we knew beforehand what it was going to be about  —  “The Resistible Rise of Arturo Ui” (Der aufhaltsame Aufstieg des Arturo Ui)

It was about the way Hitler was taught how to behave, to speak, to look in order to be impressive and sway the masses to hysterical ovations by his simple appearance and his way of holding himself like an over-lord, majestic, convincing and self-assured. The rolled r that he affected was simply a gimmick,, thought of by his trainers.

I believe that Brecht’s point in writing this play was to show how politics is theater, and especially that Hitler’s appearances were nothing but that. He makes his play a parable of the Cauliflower (Blumenkohl) mafia that is trying to take over the entire business, but it is of course clear what Brecht is really referring to. “Die Blumenkohl Mafia”. Hitler is a gangster. And, above all, the happenings in the Nazi era are far from unique. They will be repeated indefinitely, as long as there is business in the world. 5

 We saw the same play in 1996 in Lyon, mise en scène Neiner Müller. This was a Berliner Ensemble production that toured Europe. It was s et up with French translations over the stage, which seemed to us a bit far reached and not really possible to profit from. But most importantly was that we did not appreciate the mise en scène at all as much as in Berlin in ’83.

_________________

We happened to get back to Berlin  in 1997 because of a, international meeting for computer people that John was part of. I joined him a couple of days later. The city had changed completely, almost.

It was late winter or very early spring end on my first day in the city it started to snow. It was pretty darn cold and we had to go to a department store and stock up on woolens, scarves, gloves, and the like. It might well have been Kaufhaus Karstadt. I know I was only wearing a trench-coat, even though a warm one, so we were definitely not dressed for snow and cold winds.

This visit was mostly memorable for two things, der Museum Insel (the Museum Island) in the Spree and the Nikolaiviertel (Nikolai Quarter) whihc is in the old East Berlin, but we had missed it completely in ’83. It is said to have been the only part of East Berlin that the Communist regime kept attractive and in good shape. This delightful quarter right on the river Spree and across from the Museum Island became our wonderfum eating place at least a couple of evenings. We found out that Zum Paddenwirt, the most famous of the many restaurants, had Malteserkreuz, which we had discovered was, as far as we could tell, the same thing as Aalborg Scnapps (snaps in Swedish). The little Viertel was a delight to wisit and there was no inkling of it having for forty years or so been  the target of bombs and soot and severe neglect. So maybe it had actually been kept up, as we were told, spared the damages of falling bombs and then kept as delightfully old-fashioned beautiful as we saw it.

We could now also see the Berlin Cathedral, der Dom, from the 19th century, which is quite impressive, prachtvoll.  It is located on the Museum Insel

 

Alfred Brendel, German baritone

Continued: Chapter 30 – Our Swedish girls – and other memories

  1. “It was bombed by the RAF Bomber Command between 1940 and 1945, by the USAAF Eighth Air Forcebetween 1943 and 1945, and the French Air Force between 1944 and 1945” Bombing of Berlin in World War II
  2. How did they clean up all the battle debris?
  3.  Archaeological artefacts featured in the exhibition ‘American Archaeology’ – ranging from painted pottery to stone figures of gods and exquisite gold objects – date from as far back as 2000 BCE and demonstrate the rich cultural heritage of pre-Spanish cultures in Central and South America. A particular attraction is the presentation of the South Seas collection. True-to-scale exhibits of boats and spectacular houses typical of Oceania recreate the atmosphere of the Pacific islands. Ethnological Museum
  4. Altes Palais– The Altes Palais was once the city residence of the Kings of Prussia and the German Emperors. Wilhelm I used to appear at the window for the changing of the guard, which attracted onlookers and was even mentioned in travel guides of the time. The building now belongs to Berlin’s Humboldt University as part of its Faculty of Law. Bebelplatz
  5.  Der aufhaltsame Aufstieg des Arturo Ui, von Bertolt Brecht